You don’t actually pass or fail a home inspection. An inspector documents what they see and hands the report to the buyer, and your job as a seller is to keep that report from handing the buyer leverage to cut the price, demand repairs, or walk. The practical way to pass a home inspection is to think a step ahead of the buyer’s inspector: fix the cheap items that create an impression of neglect, deal with the handful of findings that actually blow up deals, make every corner of the house physically accessible, and know which problems you’re legally required to disclose once you’ve learned about them. Most purchase contracts give the buyer roughly 7 to 10 days under an inspection contingency to review the report and decide whether to proceed, renegotiate, or cancel, so everything you do before listing is aimed at that window.
Get Your Own Inspection Before You List
A pre-listing inspection is one of the most underused tools a seller has. It costs about the same as the buyer’s inspection, typically $300 to $500 depending on the home’s size, and it tells you what the buyer’s inspector is going to find before anyone else sees it. That lead time is the whole point. You get to fix problems on your own schedule, using contractors you choose, at prices you negotiate rather than numbers a buyer throws at you after the fact.
The dynamic shifts hard against the seller when a buyer’s inspector surprises everyone with a failing water heater or a cracked flue liner. You’re on the defensive, the buyer feels misled, and the credit they ask for is almost always larger than what the repair would have cost you to arrange yourself. When you already know about the issue, you can fix it, price for it, or disclose it up front. Any of those keeps you in control. A pre-listing inspection also tends to build buyer trust, and some buyers will shorten their own contingency when they see you’ve already had the home professionally evaluated.
Fix the Small Stuff That Looks Like Neglect
Inspectors report what they see. A house with a dozen minor items in disrepair reads as a neglected property, and that framing colors how the buyer interprets everything else in the report. None of the following fixes are expensive, and together they shift the tone of the entire inspection.
- Replace every burnt-out light bulb. When a switch does nothing, the inspector can’t tell whether it’s a dead bulb or a wiring problem, and either way it goes in the report.
- Fix dripping faucets, running toilets, and visible lime scale. Minor leaks suggest the plumbing hasn’t been maintained.
- Clean out gutters and make sure downspouts carry water away from the foundation. Clogged gutters get flagged as a drainage concern and a path to basement moisture.
- Replace cracked window panes and torn screens. Broken seals affect the home’s thermal envelope and are easy items for a buyer to pile onto a repair request.
- Put fresh batteries in every smoke and carbon monoxide alarm and test them. The International Residential Code, adopted in some form by most jurisdictions, requires smoke alarms in each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every floor including the basement. A missing or dead alarm is among the cheapest fixes and most commonly flagged safety items.
A few batteries and a tightened faucet handle cost almost nothing. Letting those items accumulate on an inspection report turns a move-in-ready home into a project.
Deal With the Findings That Actually Kill Deals
Cosmetic items rarely cost you a sale. The findings that cause buyers to walk or demand serious concessions involve the roof, the foundation, the electrical panel, or major mechanical equipment. If you suspect any of these problems, address them before listing, or at least get a professional assessment so you can price and disclose accordingly.
The Roof
Standard asphalt shingle roofs last roughly 20 to 25 years, and architectural shingles push 25 to 30. An inspector will note the approximate age, missing or curling shingles, damaged flashing, and any signs of leaks in the attic. A roof near the end of its lifespan often triggers the most expensive negotiation in the deal. Some homeowners’ insurance carriers won’t cover roofs over 20 years old or will limit coverage to actual cash value, which makes the buyer’s lender nervous too. If your roof is aging, a professional roofing assessment before listing gives you concrete numbers rather than letting the buyer’s inspector estimate the worst case.
The Foundation
Not every crack means structural failure, but inspectors report all of them. Vertical hairline cracks running straight up and down are usually caused by concrete shrinkage during curing and rarely indicate movement. Diagonal stair-step cracks along mortar joints suggest differential settlement, where one section of the foundation is sinking faster than another. Horizontal cracks are the serious ones. They indicate lateral soil pressure pushing the wall inward and are flagged as high-risk structural concerns in the vast majority of evaluations.
As a rough guide, cracks narrower than 1/8 inch are frequently cosmetic, though they should be sealed to keep water out. Cracks wider than 1/4 inch typically warrant a structural engineer’s evaluation. Any horizontal cracking or wall bowing should be assessed before the buyer’s inspector finds it. That kind of finding almost always triggers a request for a professional structural evaluation, and buyers tend to assume the worst when the report uses words like “structural compromise.”
The Electrical Panel
Certain older electrical panels get called out immediately. Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) Stab-Lok panels and Zinsco panels have documented histories of breakers failing to trip during overloads, with independent testing finding FPE breaker failure rates between 25 and 60 percent. The Consumer Product Safety Commission investigated FPE breakers in the early 1980s and confirmed they failed certain testing requirements, but closed the investigation without issuing a formal recall.1U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Commission Closes Investigation of FPE Circuit Breakers and Provides Safety Information for Consumers
If your home has either brand, expect the inspector to flag it, and expect many buyers to request a full panel replacement. That typically runs $2,000 to $4,000 depending on the home’s electrical needs. Replacing the panel before listing removes an otherwise near-certain negotiation point.
HVAC and the Water Heater
Furnaces typically last 15 to 20 years and standard tank water heaters 8 to 12. An inspector will note the age and condition of both and flag safety concerns like cracked heat exchangers, corroded flue pipes, or improper venting. Old but functional systems don’t necessarily need to be replaced before selling, but expect buyers to factor remaining useful life into their negotiation.
Anticipate the Add-On Inspections
A standard inspection covers structure, roof, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and visible interior and exterior components. It does not test for environmental hazards or evaluate systems that need specialized equipment. Buyers often order add-on inspections separately, and findings from those can derail a transaction just as fast as the standard report.
Radon
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that seeps into homes through foundation cracks and gaps. The EPA recommends mitigation when indoor radon levels reach 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter) or higher, and suggests homeowners consider mitigation at levels between 2 and 4 pCi/L.2U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. What is EPA’s Action Level for Radon and What Does it Mean? Professional radon testing during a real estate transaction typically costs $150 to $700. If levels come back above the action level, buyers almost always request a mitigation system, which involves installing a vent pipe and fan to draw gas from beneath the foundation. Mitigation systems generally cost $800 to $1,500 and reduce levels well below the action threshold.
Termites and Other Wood-Destroying Insects
Termite inspections are optional in a standard transaction but mandatory for certain loan types. VA-backed loans require a wood-destroying insect inspection in most states. The VA publishes a state-by-state list; the requirement covers the entire state in roughly 35 states and territories, with additional county-level requirements in about 8 more.3U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs. VA Home Loans Local Requirements A termite inspection typically runs $50 to $280 as an add-on. If active infestation or damage is found, treatment and repair costs can escalate quickly, and for VA and FHA loans the issue generally must be resolved before the loan can close.
Sewer Scope, Septic, and Well
A sewer scope inspection runs a camera through the main sewer line to look for cracks, root intrusion, or collapsed sections. Standard inspections don’t cover this, and sewer line replacement can easily cost $5,000 to $15,000. Mold testing, asbestos assessments, well water quality tests, and septic system evaluations also sit outside the standard scope. If your home has a private well or septic system, buyers will almost certainly order those inspections, and getting them done yourself first lets you address any issues on your own terms.
Make the House Inspectable on the Day
An inspector who can’t reach something marks it “uninspected,” and that notation raises red flags for buyers. Before the inspection, clear paths to the attic, crawlspace, basement, electrical panel, water heater, and furnace. Move stored boxes and furniture away from access points. If any area is locked, including a shed, detached garage, or gated yard, leave keys or codes with your agent.
Outside, trim vegetation and move firewood, tools, or debris away from the foundation. The inspector needs to walk the full perimeter and examine the foundation, siding, and grading. Overgrown shrubs pressed against the house make that impossible and can mask moisture problems.
All utilities must be on. The inspector will run faucets, test outlets, cycle the HVAC, and operate major appliances. If water, gas, or electricity is shut off, that testing can’t happen and you’ll likely need a return visit, which delays the transaction and may add a fee. For gas fireplaces or older heating units with pilot lights, light them before the inspector arrives. A dead pilot light doesn’t necessarily mean the system is broken, but it prevents the inspector from evaluating it.
Secure pets before you leave. A loose dog in the yard shuts down the exterior inspection, and a nervous cat behind the furnace creates an access problem in exactly the wrong spot. Sellers should leave the property for the duration. Your presence makes it harder for the buyer and inspector to talk candidly, and hovering rarely helps.
Have Your Paperwork Ready
Assemble a single file of records that show professional upkeep and legal compliance. Building permits for additions, finished basements, decks, or electrical work prove the projects met local codes. If you can’t find the originals, the local building department usually keeps permit records and can provide copies. Include service records for the HVAC system, water heater, and other mechanical equipment, plus warranty certificates for roofing, appliances, or recent repairs. Keep it chronological in one binder and leave it somewhere the inspector can see.
One obligation sits outside the inspection itself but is worth flagging because sellers forget it: if your home was built before 1978, federal law requires you to give the buyer the EPA’s lead hazard information pamphlet, disclose any known lead-based paint or hazards, hand over any related inspection reports, and allow the buyer a 10-day window to conduct their own lead inspection unless both sides agree in writing to a different timeframe.4Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 42 U.S. Code 4852d – Disclosure of Information Concerning Lead Upon Transfer of Residential Property The purchase contract itself must include a lead warning statement and your written disclosure.5eCFR. Subpart A – Disclosure of Known Lead-Based Paint and/or Lead-Based Paint Hazards Upon Sale or Lease of Residential Property Knowingly violating these rules exposes you to civil penalties and potential liability for up to three times the buyer’s actual damages.
Credits vs. Repairs, and the FHA/VA Wrinkle
Once the buyer has the report, they can request repairs, ask for a price reduction or closing credit, or cancel and get their earnest money back. Sellers and buyers often negotiate whether the seller will fix issues before closing or provide a dollar credit at the table instead. A credit gives the buyer control over contractor, materials, and timing. Some buyers prefer the seller to handle it so they’re not walking into a renovation on day one.
For government-backed loans, the choice may not be yours. Certain health and safety issues, including peeling paint in a pre-1978 home, a broken heating system, or missing handrails, may need to be physically repaired before an FHA or VA loan can close. A credit won’t satisfy the lender. If your buyer is using one of those loans, raise lender-required repairs with your agent early so they don’t hold up closing.
What You Can’t Un-Know
If a buyer’s inspection reveals material defects and the deal falls through, you now know about those defects. In most states, seller disclosure laws require you to tell future buyers about known material problems, including ones you learned through a previous buyer’s inspection. Failing to update your disclosure form creates legal exposure. A later buyer who finds the undisclosed defect can pursue a claim against you, and in some states your listing agent may face professional sanctions as well.
The straightforward move is to disclose it. If the defect has been repaired, disclose both the original issue and the repair. Trying to hide a known problem to protect the sale price is a bet that rarely pays off and often leads to litigation.