To write a boat bill of sale, put the full names and addresses of buyer and seller on the page, describe the vessel precisely (make, model, year, length, color, and Hull Identification Number), itemize the price across the hull, motor, and trailer, add a warranty of title and an as-is or warranty clause, and have both parties sign — ideally in front of a notary. Done right, the document is what the buyer takes to the state titling office to put the boat in their name, and what protects the seller once the keys change hands.
What the Document Must Contain
Start with the people. Write the full legal names and current mailing addresses of both buyer and seller, and include phone numbers for each. Registration offices sometimes need to follow up, and the contact details save a trip later.
State the agreed purchase price and the exact date of sale. That date sets when ownership changed hands, which drives registration deadlines, tax calculations, and liability for anything that happens with the boat afterward.
Describe the vessel in enough detail that a stranger could identify it from the paperwork alone: make, model, year of manufacture, length, and color. If a motor is part of the deal, list its make, model, serial number, and horsepower on its own line. Outboards belong as a separate item, not bundled into the boat. If a trailer is included, record its VIN or serial number, make, model, and dimensions, also separately. Electronics, anchors, safety gear, and any other equipment changing hands should be itemized so no one argues later about what was included.
Record the Hull Identification Number Correctly
The single most important identifier on the document is the Hull Identification Number, a 12-character code every manufacturer is required to permanently affix to the boat under federal regulation.1eCFR. 33 CFR 181.23 – Hull Identification Numbers Required You’ll usually find it stamped on the transom (the flat back panel of the hull) on the starboard side.
Go to the boat and copy the HIN character by character off the hull itself. Don’t take it from an ad, an old insurance document, or the seller’s memory. One wrong digit can stall the title transfer and send you back to redo the paperwork.
Itemize the Price Instead of Lumping It Together
A single lump-sum price for “the boat and everything with it” is one of the most expensive mistakes in a private sale. Many states tax boats, motors, and trailers at different rates or under different categories. In some states, an outboard motor and accessories are exempt from sales tax when separately itemized and priced, but taxed when bundled into one number. Trailers are often classified as motor vehicles and taxed under highway-use rules rather than boat sales tax rates.
Break the price into at least three lines: hull, motor, and trailer. If expensive electronics are part of the deal, give those a line too. The extra minutes can save the buyer hundreds or thousands of dollars at the tax office.
Confirm the Seller Owns It Free and Clear
Before money changes hands, verify the seller actually owns the boat outright. A lien from a bank, marina, or repair shop can follow the vessel to a new owner, and a buyer who skips this step risks losing the boat or inheriting someone else’s debt.
For a state-titled boat, contact the titling agency in the state where it’s currently registered. Most can provide a title history or confirm whether liens are recorded against the hull number. For a federally documented vessel, request an Abstract of Title from the U.S. Coast Guard’s National Vessel Documentation Center, which shows the ownership chain and any recorded mortgages.2National Vessel Documentation Center. National Vessel Documentation Center
Then put a warranty of title into the bill of sale itself: a statement from the seller that they are the legal owner, that the boat is free from liens and encumbrances, and that they have the right to sell it. If the seller won’t make that representation, treat it as a red flag.
State the Condition and Any Warranties
Most private boat sales are “as-is,” meaning the buyer accepts the vessel in its current condition and the seller promises nothing about its fitness or quality. If that’s the deal, spell it out: “The vessel is sold in its present condition, with no warranties expressed or implied.” Without an explicit disclaimer, a buyer might later argue the seller implicitly guaranteed the boat was seaworthy or that specific systems worked.
If the seller is making specific promises — say, that the engine has fewer than 200 hours, or that the hull is free of osmotic blistering — write those into the document in specific, measurable terms. Vague assurances like “boat is in good condition” are nearly impossible to enforce and create confusion for both sides. Either disclaim warranties clearly or state them precisely.
Signatures, Notarization, and Witnesses
Both buyer and seller must sign, and both signatures must appear on every copy, not only the “original.” Unsigned or partially signed documents are a common reason title offices reject applications.
Notarization requirements depend on where you are and what kind of vessel is involved. Many states require or strongly recommend notarization for state-titled boat transfers. Even where it isn’t legally required, it’s worth the small fee: a notary verifies identities, confirms both parties are signing willingly, and adds a layer of fraud protection if ownership is ever disputed.
Some states accept witnesses as an alternative. If you take that route, have at least one disinterested witness (someone with no financial stake in the deal) sign with their printed name and address. When in doubt, use a notary. Don’t sign ahead of time and then bring the document in; most notaries need to witness the actual signing.
Documented Vessels Use a Different Form
Most recreational boats are titled and registered through a state agency, but vessels of at least five net tons that are wholly owned by U.S. citizens are eligible for federal documentation through the Coast Guard.3Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 46 USC 12103 – Documentation of Vessels In practice, most sailboats over about 25 feet and many cabin cruisers meet that threshold.
If the boat is federally documented, you can’t use a generic bill of sale. The Coast Guard requires its own form, CG-1340, which must be notarized. A bill of sale that isn’t filed with the NVDC is considered invalid against anyone except the original seller or someone who already knew about the sale, meaning a future creditor of the seller could potentially claim the boat was never transferred.4United States Coast Guard. CG-1340 Bill of Sale The NVDC is strict: typos, missing signatures, or unchecked boxes get rejected, and resubmission can add weeks.
Use a State Form When One Exists
Many state titling agencies publish their own bill of sale forms. If yours does, use it. The title office is more likely to accept its own form without questions, and the fields are built for the state’s specific requirements. Generic templates from boating associations work when your state doesn’t prescribe a form.
Fill in every field. If something doesn’t apply, write “N/A” rather than leaving a blank. An empty field looks like an oversight; “N/A” shows you addressed it. Make multiple signed copies: each party keeps one, and you’ll need extras for the title office, your insurance company, and any lender.
After You Sign
The bill of sale is the starting document, not the end of the process.
Most states give the buyer a limited window, often 15 to 30 days, to apply for title transfer and new registration. Missing that deadline usually triggers a late fee. Take the signed bill of sale, the signed-over title, and any required forms to the state titling agency promptly after closing.
Sales or use tax is almost always owed. The bill of sale is the document the state uses to determine how much, which is why accurate pricing and itemization matter.
Sellers have one more step: notify the state titling agency that the vessel has been sold. Many states require or strongly encourage this release-of-liability filing, and it protects the seller from responsibility for anything that happens with the boat after the sale date, including marina violations, accident liability, and future registration renewals. Sellers who skip it sometimes discover years later that they’re still the registered owner of a boat they sold long ago. For a documented vessel, the seller should also confirm that the buyer has filed the CG-1340 with the NVDC; until then, Coast Guard records still show the seller as the owner.4United States Coast Guard. CG-1340 Bill of Sale