A trailer bill of sale is a short written record that transfers ownership from seller to buyer, and a well-drafted one does two jobs at once: it gives the buyer what they need to title and register the trailer, and it ends the seller’s legal connection to it on the date of the sale. Get the fields right and the DMV visit is routine. Miss something — a digit in the VIN, an unsigned line, a blank price — and the sale can stall, trigger tax trouble, or leave the seller answerable for a trailer they no longer own.
The Core Fields Every Bill of Sale Needs
Regardless of state, the document should carry the same backbone of information. Treat each field as mandatory.
- Full legal names, mailing addresses, and contact information for both buyer and seller. Use the names exactly as they appear on each person’s driver’s license so nothing mismatches at title transfer.
- A full description of the trailer: make, model, year of manufacture, color, length, type (utility, enclosed, boat, flatbed), and any notable modifications. Specificity makes it harder for anyone to later dispute which trailer changed hands.
- The Vehicle Identification Number, copied straight from the trailer’s VIN plate. Transposing a single digit can get the sale flagged as fraudulent during registration.
- The purchase price in both numerals and words, for example “$3,500 / three thousand five hundred dollars.” When the two formats conflict, most jurisdictions treat the written-out version as controlling. For a gift, write “$0” and label it as a gift rather than leaving the price blank.
- The payment method: cash, cashier’s check, personal check, or electronic transfer. Noting this is especially useful for cash deals, where there’s otherwise no paper trail.
- The exact calendar date of the sale. This is the date liability shifts, which matters for insurance, tolls, and anything that happens with the trailer afterward.
- Signatures from both buyer and seller. An unsigned bill of sale reads as a draft, and most DMVs will reject it on sight.
Record the trailer’s gross vehicle weight rating too if you know it. Many states calculate registration fees from that number, and having it on the bill of sale saves a later trip to a scale.
The As-Is Clause and What It Does Not Cover
Most private trailer sales are written “as is.” Under the Uniform Commercial Code, which every state has adopted in some form, language like “as is” or “with all faults” eliminates implied warranties. The seller is making no promises about the trailer’s condition, fitness, or functionality beyond what’s visibly apparent at the time of sale.1Legal Information Institute. UCC 2-316 Exclusion or Modification of Warranties
The limit is important. An as-is clause strips implied warranties only. It does not erase express warranties, which are specific factual claims the seller actually makes. If the listing says “the axles were replaced six months ago,” or the seller tells the buyer “the brakes are new,” those statements survive the as-is language. If they turn out to be false, the buyer may still have legal recourse.
For a seller, the safest practice is to include the as-is clause and avoid making specific claims about condition, in writing or in conversation. For a buyer, inspect everything before signing. Once you accept an as-is trailer, your ability to come back for a refund over problems you could have spotted is essentially gone.
Check for Liens Before Any Money Changes Hands
This is where private trailer sales most often go wrong. If the seller still owes money on the trailer, the lender holds a lien, which is a legal claim that doesn’t disappear when the trailer changes hands. A buyer who pays in good faith for a trailer with an outstanding lien can still have it repossessed by the lender.
Ask the seller for a clean title before you pay. A clean title lists only the owner, with no lienholder named. If a lender appears on the title, the seller needs to pay off the balance, obtain a lien release, and have the title reissued without the lien. That process typically takes two to six weeks depending on the state and whether the lender works electronically or by mail.
You can also run the VIN through the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS), a federal database maintained by the Department of Justice that tracks title records and liens across states. Several approved providers run searches for a few dollars. It isn’t foolproof, but it catches most problems.
If you’re the seller and the loan isn’t paid off, the cleanest option is to clear it before listing. If that isn’t possible, some buyers will agree to meet at the lender’s office and pay the lender directly, with the remainder going to the seller. Whatever arrangement you reach, write it into the bill of sale.
Trailers Without a Manufacturer VIN
Homemade and custom-built trailers often have no manufacturer-assigned VIN. Every state requires some form of identification number before a trailer can be titled, so this has to be resolved before the sale rather than after. The owner applies for a state-assigned VIN through the local DMV or motor vehicle agency, a law enforcement officer inspects the trailer to confirm it isn’t stolen, and the state issues a number that’s physically stamped onto the frame.
Try to handle this before signing anything. A bill of sale for a trailer with no VIN is much harder for the buyer to use at the DMV, and some states won’t process the title transfer without a number assigned. If you’re buying from someone who hasn’t done this yet, factor the time and the inspection into your decision. Forms, fees, and inspection requirements vary significantly, so contact your state’s motor vehicle agency directly.
Odometer Disclosure Usually Doesn’t Apply
Federal law requires an odometer disclosure when most vehicles are sold, but trailers are exempt. A vehicle that is not self-propelled does not require an odometer disclosure, and the same regulation also exempts any vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating above 16,000 pounds.2eCFR. 49 CFR 580.17 – Exemptions Standard trailers have no engine and no odometer, so the exemption covers nearly every private trailer sale. The exception is a motorized trailer or specialty RV-style unit that actually has an odometer; in that case the seller must disclose cumulative mileage or certify that the actual mileage is unknown.3Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 49 USC 32705 – Disclosure Requirements on Odometer Mileage When Motor Vehicles Are Transferred
Signing: Date, Witnesses, and Notarization
Both parties sign on the same date the transaction actually happens. Pre-dating or post-dating sounds harmless and isn’t. Insurance companies use the sale date to decide when coverage starts and stops, and DMVs use it to calculate registration deadlines and late fees. An inaccurate date creates problems neither party wants.
Witnesses
Witnesses aren’t required in most states for a basic trailer bill of sale, but one or two signatures from people who watched the signing strengthen the document. In a later dispute, a witness who can testify that both parties signed voluntarily carries real weight. Each witness should print their name, sign, and date.
Notarization
Some states require notarization for vehicle and trailer bills of sale; others don’t. Where it’s optional, it’s still cheap insurance. A notary public verifies identities and confirms the signatures were made willingly, then applies an official seal that makes the document much harder to challenge later. Fees for a single document typically run between $10 and $25. Banks, shipping stores, and courthouses often provide notary services during business hours.
If your state requires notarization and you skip it, the DMV will reject the bill of sale during title transfer, and you’ll have to track down the other party to do it again. Check your state’s rule before the day of the sale.
What Each Side Does After the Document Is Signed
A bill of sale is not a title. It proves a transaction happened; the buyer still has to transfer the title into their name through the state motor vehicle agency to make the ownership change official. Most states give buyers a window of 15 to 30 days after the sale date before late fees start.
Private trailer purchases usually trigger a use tax, which is the equivalent of sales tax for sales no dealer handled. The buyer typically pays it when registering, calculated as a percentage of the purchase price on the bill of sale. Rates and exemptions vary by state. Keep the bill of sale accessible, because the price you documented is the number the state will use.
The seller’s job isn’t finished at signing either. Notify your insurer to remove the trailer from your policy. If your state offers or requires a release-of-liability form, submit it to the DMV so you aren’t held responsible for anything that happens with the trailer afterward. Hold onto your copy for at least three to five years to cover any later tax questions or disputes; keeping it longer costs nothing.
The buyer should keep the original bill of sale for as long as they own the trailer, and ideally permanently. It’s the document that proves how and when they acquired it, and replacing it years later, once the seller has moved on, is difficult.