An as-is bill of sale for a boat is a written record of the sale that transfers ownership and states plainly that the buyer takes the vessel in its current condition with no warranties from the seller. Done properly, it gives the buyer the paperwork needed to title and register the boat and gives the seller a clear record that no promises were made about what works and what doesn’t. Done sloppily, a wrong digit in the hull number or a missing signature can hold up registration for weeks.
What “As Is” Actually Does
Under the Uniform Commercial Code, which every state has adopted in some form, language like “as is” or “with all faults” strips away the implied warranties that would otherwise come with the sale, including the implied warranty of merchantability and the implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose. The practical result: once you buy the boat, you own whatever problems come with it. If the engine throws a rod the next day, that’s the buyer’s loss. The seller has no obligation to fix anything or refund money.
“As is” does not cover fraud. A seller who knows about a serious defect and actively hides it, paints over major hull damage, or rolls back an engine hour meter can still face a misrepresentation claim regardless of what the bill of sale says. The disclaimer covers unknown defects and honest wear, not deliberate deception.
Because the buyer is giving up warranty protection, a pre-purchase marine survey matters more here than in a sale with warranties. A qualified surveyor examines the hull, deck, engine, electrical, fuel system, and safety equipment and produces a dated written report of the boat’s condition and fair market value. Insurance companies and lenders commonly require a current survey, and if a dispute ever arises about what shape the boat was in on the day of sale, that report is the evidence.
What the Bill of Sale Needs to Contain
A complete as-is bill of sale captures who sold what to whom, in what condition, and for how much, with enough detail that there is no ambiguity at the registration office or in a later dispute.
The Parties
Full legal names and mailing addresses for both buyer and seller. If either party is a business, use the entity’s legal name and include the name and title of the person signing on its behalf. Record the date of the sale.
The Vessel
Include make, model, year of manufacture, length, and type (sailboat, powerboat, pontoon, personal watercraft, and so on). The Hull Identification Number is the most important identifier. Every boat manufactured or imported for sale in the United States must carry a HIN, a 12-character alphanumeric code usually stamped on a plate on the upper starboard side of the transom. Copy it carefully and check it against the existing title; a single transposed character causes problems at the titling office.
If the boat is currently registered with a state, include its registration number. If it is a Coast Guard documented vessel, include the official documentation number instead. Record the engine make, model, serial number, and horsepower. If the boat has an hour meter, write down the engine hours at the time of sale; if it doesn’t, note that too.
Price and the “As Is” Clause
State the agreed purchase price in both numbers and words to prevent disputes. The disclaimer belongs in its own paragraph, in plain language, something along the lines of: “The seller makes no warranties, express or implied, regarding the condition, fitness, or merchantability of the vessel. The buyer accepts the vessel in its present condition, with all faults.” Many sellers also add a line confirming the buyer had the opportunity to inspect the vessel or obtain a survey before the sale.
The Form Itself
Many state wildlife agencies, departments of natural resources, and motor vehicle offices publish blank bill of sale forms you can download, and these often include the exact language that state wants to see for title transfer. If your state publishes one, use it. If not, draft your own or use a template from a legal forms provider, as long as the document contains all of the details above and the “as is” language. Print at least two originals so both parties walk away with a signed copy.
Don’t Forget the Trailer
If a trailer comes with the boat, it needs its own paperwork. Every state treats a boat trailer as a separate vehicle, with its own title and registration independent of the boat. Listing the trailer as an accessory on the boat’s bill of sale will not work at the registration office.
Create a separate bill of sale for the trailer, or a clearly distinct section in the same document, covering the trailer’s year, make, Vehicle Identification Number, and sale price. The VIN is typically stamped on a plate on the tongue or on the driver’s side frame rail near the front. Match that number against the trailer’s title before any money changes hands. A missing or illegible VIN plate is a red flag for a homemade trailer that was never properly titled, or a stolen one. The seller signs over the trailer title separately, and registration fees and any applicable sales or use tax are assessed on the trailer independently.
Check for Liens Before You Sign
Buying “as is” means accepting the boat’s physical condition. It does not mean accepting hidden financial claims against it. A lien can follow the boat to a new owner, leaving the buyer responsible for someone else’s debt.
For state-titled boats, the title should show any recorded lien. If a lienholder is listed, the seller needs to provide a lien release or have the lienholder sign off on the title before transfer. Never accept a bill of sale in place of a clean title when a title is required. If the seller says the title is lost, they need to obtain a duplicate from their state’s titling agency before the sale. Walking away from a deal where the seller can’t produce a clear title is almost always the right move.
Maritime liens are a separate concern and work differently. Under federal maritime law, a maritime lien arises automatically when someone provides necessaries to a vessel: fuel, repairs, dock services, supplies. No recording is required for the lien to exist, so it won’t appear on a state title search. The lien attaches to the vessel itself, which means a new buyer can be forced to pay for services the previous owner never settled. The risk is highest with larger vessels kept at marinas or that have had significant yard work. Ask the seller for copies of paid invoices from boatyards and marinas, and contact the marina where the boat is kept to confirm no outstanding charges. For documented vessels or boats of significant value, a maritime attorney can run a lien search.
If the Boat Is Coast Guard Documented
Boats measuring at least five net tons (roughly 26 feet and above, though tonnage is based on volume, not length) are eligible for documentation with the U.S. Coast Guard. Documentation is optional for recreational boats but mandatory for certain commercial uses, such as carrying passengers for hire or commercial fishing. If the boat carries a Coast Guard documentation number instead of a state registration number, the transfer process is different: ownership is recorded in a federal database maintained by the National Vessel Documentation Center, and the buyer files an application for initial documentation or transfer with the NVDC rather than only submitting a bill of sale to a state agency. State numbering requirements may still apply unless the vessel already displays its documentation number.
Signing, Notarization, and Payment
Both buyer and seller must sign. Many states require notarization for a boat bill of sale to be accepted for title transfer, particularly for a titled vessel. Even where notarization isn’t strictly required, having the signatures notarized confirms each party’s identity and witnesses the signatures, which makes it much harder for either side to later claim they didn’t sign. Schedule the signing at a bank, shipping store, or with a mobile notary.
Exchange the signed bill of sale and payment at the same time. Cashier’s checks or bank wire transfers are safer than personal checks for a transaction of this size.
After the Sale
The buyer is responsible for transferring the title and registering the boat with the appropriate state agency, which depending on the state might be the department of motor vehicles, department of natural resources, a wildlife commission, or a similar office. The process generally involves submitting the signed bill of sale, the original title signed over by the seller, and an application for a new title and registration.
Expect registration fees and sales or use tax on the purchase price. Both vary widely by state. Use tax typically applies when you buy from a private seller who doesn’t collect sales tax at the sale, and many states collect it at registration, so budget for it when planning the purchase.
Sellers should file their own notice of sale with the state’s titling or registration agency promptly after the transaction. Most states provide an online form or portal. Until the state’s records reflect the change of ownership, the seller may remain the registered owner on file, which can create liability exposure if the new owner is involved in an accident or violation. Don’t rely on the buyer’s registration application to update the record on the seller’s side.