To get new license plates, you need proof you own the vehicle, a government-issued photo ID, proof of insurance, proof of your address, any inspection certificates your state requires, and enough money to cover sales tax, the title fee, and the registration fee. Exactly what counts as proof of ownership depends on whether you bought the car new, used, from a dealer, from a private seller, or brought it in from another state. The rest of the list is roughly the same everywhere.
Proof You Own the Vehicle
This is the document that changes most from one buyer to the next, so it’s worth sorting out before you leave for the motor vehicle office.
- Bought new from a dealer: the dealer provides a Manufacturer’s Certificate of Origin, which establishes that the vehicle has never been titled before. Dealers often file the registration paperwork for you; if yours doesn’t, this is the document you bring.
- Bought used from a dealer: the dealer should hand you the title signed over to you, or the title application already in process. Check that the assignment section is signed before you leave the lot.
- Bought from a private seller: you need the title signed over by the seller plus a bill of sale showing the purchase price, the date, and both parties’ names. Some states require the title signatures to be notarized.
- Moving in from another state: bring the title from your previous state. Your new state issues its own title as part of the registration.
If the vehicle ever had a loan on it, make sure the title shows the lien released. A title still listing a lienholder will stall your application until you can produce a lien satisfaction letter from the lender.
Federal law also requires the seller to give you a written odometer disclosure when the vehicle changes hands, either on the title itself or on a separate federal odometer statement. Vehicles that are at least 20 model years old are exempt, so for transfers in 2026 that cutoff is model year 2006 and older. The threshold moves forward one year every year.1Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 49 USC 32705 – Disclosure Requirements on Transfer of Motor Vehicles2eCFR. 49 CFR 580.17 – Exemptions
Your ID, Insurance, and Address
The personal-side documents are the same regardless of how you got the car.
- A valid driver’s license is the standard photo ID. A state ID card or passport works in most states. Some states require the ID to show your current address.
- Proof of insurance: an insurance card or policy declarations page listing the company name, policy number, effective and expiration dates, and the vehicle identification number. Nearly every state requires active coverage before plates are issued. If you just bought the car and haven’t added it to your policy, call your insurer first. New Hampshire is the only state that doesn’t mandate auto insurance, and even there you have to show you can cover the minimum financial responsibility requirements.
- Proof of residency: a utility bill, lease, or mortgage statement in your name at your current address.
If someone else is handling the trip for you, most states require a signed power of attorney authorizing that person to do motor vehicle business on your behalf. Some states require it notarized.
Inspection Certificates, If Your Area Requires Them
Roughly three dozen states require some form of vehicle inspection before registration, whether safety, emissions, or a VIN verification. Whether yours is on that list, and whether the requirement applies to your specific car, depends on where you live and sometimes which county you live in.
Emissions programs run under the Clean Air Act and are administered by state and local agencies, so coverage varies. Some states test statewide, some only in certain counties, and some not at all. Many areas exempt newer vehicles for their first few model years, and older vehicles may face different standards.3U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Vehicle Emissions Inspection and Maintenance General Information Safety inspections, where required, typically check brakes, tires, lights, steering, and windshield condition. States that don’t require routine safety inspections may still require a VIN verification for vehicles coming in from another state.
If any of this applies to you, bring the passing certificate or sticker to your registration appointment. Call your local motor vehicle agency before the visit so you aren’t turned away.
Taxes and Fees to Budget For
Plates cost more than the registration fee itself. Add these up before you go.
- Sales or use tax on the vehicle. Dealers often collect and remit this at the point of sale. For private purchases, you usually owe it at the counter when you register. Rates vary by state and sometimes by county. If you already paid sales tax to another state on the same vehicle, your home state generally credits that amount, though you may owe the difference if your state’s rate is higher.
- Title fee, generally between $28 and $50, with some states outside that range.
- Annual registration fee for a standard passenger car, which runs from under $20 to over $150 depending on the state. Some states calculate it from vehicle weight, value, or age.
- Plate fee, where the state charges separately for the physical plates, especially for specialty or personalized designs.
Most offices take cash, checks, and credit or debit cards, though some add a surcharge on card payments.
How Soon You Have to Do This
The clock starts at the sale date. Most states give you between 10 and 30 days to register a newly purchased vehicle. Miss the window and you’ll pay late fees that grow the longer you wait, and in some states driving an unregistered vehicle is a misdemeanor that can bring a citation, fines, or a tow.
The same window applies if you move to a new state. Residency is usually triggered by starting a job, enrolling your children in school, or signing a lease. Driving on out-of-state plates for months after a move is one of the most common registration violations, and it can create insurance problems if you’re in an accident.
Where You Actually Go
If you bought from a dealership, the dealer typically handles registration, tax collection, and plate issuance. You drive off with temporary plates while the paperwork is processed. Verify the dealer actually finished the job; buyers regularly discover weeks later that the temporary plates have expired with nothing permanent in the mail.
For private purchases and out-of-state transfers, an in-person visit to the motor vehicle agency is the usual route. Many offices now require or strongly prefer appointments, so check online first. Bring every document above, the completed application forms from your state’s motor vehicle website, and your payment. The clerk processes everything and in many cases issues plates on the spot, or hands you temporary tags while the permanent ones are produced.
Online portals work well for renewals and replacement plates, but most states still require an in-person visit for first-time registration of a vehicle new to the state’s system. If your state does allow online initial registration, you’ll upload scanned documents and pay electronically. Mail-in applications work similarly; use a trackable method since you’re sending originals or certified copies.
If you already have plates on a vehicle you’re selling or trading, most states let you transfer those plates to the new vehicle instead of buying new ones. Both vehicles generally need to be registered to the same person and be the same class, so passenger car plates can’t move to a commercial truck. Transfer fees are usually modest, often under $10.
One Thing to Check After the Plates Arrive
About 28 states require plates on both the front and rear of the vehicle; roughly 22 require only a rear plate. If you’re moving from a one-plate state to a two-plate state, you’ll need to install a front plate bracket. Many vehicles sold mainly in rear-only states don’t come with front bracket hardware, so you may need a mounting kit. Driving without a front plate where one is required is an easy ticket to collect.