On a standard car title, the seller signs the “Assignment of Title” section printed on the back or lower portion of the document, and the buyer signs the transferee line directly below or beside it. That is the part of the car title that needs to be signed to transfer ownership. Both signatures have to be in place, along with the odometer reading, sale date, sale price, and the buyer’s printed name and address, before the state’s motor vehicle agency will process the transfer.
Where the Seller Signs
The seller’s line sits inside a clearly marked block labeled “Assignment of Title,” “Transfer of Ownership,” or simply “Seller’s Signature.” Wording and layout depend on which state issued the title, but every version has a dedicated line for the seller. This signature is what legally releases ownership. Without it, the buyer cannot register the car or get a new title issued in their name.
Sign exactly as the name appears on the front of the title. If the title reads “Robert J. Smith,” signing as “Bob Smith” can cause the DMV to reject the transfer. When the printed name and the signature don’t match, some states ask the seller to sign both ways or produce additional identification to clear up the discrepancy.
Where the Buyer Signs
Directly below or next to the seller’s signature area is a line for the buyer, sometimes labeled “Transferee” or “Purchaser.” The buyer signs here to accept ownership. Alongside the signature, the buyer prints their full legal name and current mailing address in the spaces provided. Some states also ask the buyer to print a driver’s license number in this block.
Both signatures should go on the title at the same time, with both parties present. That avoids the common trap of a seller handing over a signed title and the buyer discovering later that a required field was blank or wrong.
The Other Fields That Have to Be Filled In
The signature lines are only part of the assignment section. Federal law requires the seller to record the vehicle’s current odometer reading on the title at the time of sale and to indicate whether the mileage is accurate, whether the odometer has exceeded its mechanical limits, or whether the reading does not reflect actual mileage. A false odometer statement is a federal crime carrying fines and imprisonment.1Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 49 USC 32703 – Preventing Tampering
Older vehicles can be exempt. Vehicles from model year 2010 or earlier that are at least 10 years old do not require odometer disclosure. For model year 2011 and later, the exemption kicks in 20 years after January 1 of the calendar year matching the model year.2eCFR. 49 CFR 580.17 – Exemptions A 2006 vehicle sold in 2026 can have that section left blank or marked exempt. A 2012 vehicle still needs a disclosure, because it won’t hit the 20-year mark until 2032.
The sale date and purchase price also go in the assignment section. The state uses the price to calculate sales tax, and the date starts the clock on the buyer’s registration deadline. Every field in or near the assignment block should be complete before either party signs.
Titles With More Than One Owner
If the title lists two owners connected by “and,” both people must sign the assignment section. Neither owner alone can transfer the vehicle. If the names are connected by “or,” either owner can sign independently and complete the transfer without the other person’s involvement. Check the conjunction on the front of the title before you meet to sign; this one word changes who needs to show up.
Some states print “and/or” between co-owners. The rules generally follow the “or” treatment there, meaning either owner can sign, but a handful of states treat “and/or” the same as “and.” Call your local motor vehicle agency if you see this on your title.
When Someone Other Than the Owner Signs
Business-Owned Vehicles
When a company owns the vehicle, an authorized representative signs on behalf of the business. That person prints their name, their title within the company such as “President” or “Fleet Manager,” and the business name. Some states ask for supporting documentation like a corporate resolution or articles of organization to prove the signer has authority to sell company assets.
Power of Attorney
If the owner can’t be present, someone holding a valid power of attorney can sign in their place. The power of attorney document has to specifically grant authority over vehicle transactions; a general power of attorney may not be accepted. The person signing writes “as attorney-in-fact for [owner’s name]” next to their signature and brings the original power of attorney to the DMV. Requirements vary by state, and some states have their own dedicated motor vehicle power of attorney forms.
Vehicles With a Lien
If money is still owed on the car, the lienholder is named on the title and the lien has to be cleared before the title can transfer cleanly. The lienholder either signs a release section printed on the title itself or provides a separate lien release document. In many states, the lienholder must deliver the released title or a signed release to the owner within a set number of days after the loan is paid off. If you’re buying, insist on seeing the lien release before handing over any money.
Signing Mistakes That Can Void the Title
Title documents have almost no tolerance for errors around the signature block. The most common problems are small but expensive:
- Using white-out or correction fluid anywhere on the title voids the document in virtually every state. The owner then has to apply for a duplicate and start over.
- Signing on the wrong line, with the seller landing on the buyer’s line or vice versa, usually leads to outright rejection at the DMV.
- Leaving fields blank, including the odometer reading, sale date, or buyer name, gives the DMV grounds to refuse the transfer. Fill every required field before anyone signs.
- Signing a name that doesn’t match the printed name on the title front creates a mismatch the DMV may not accept without additional proof of identity.
If an error does happen, the accepted fix in most states is to draw a single line through the mistake, write the correct information nearby, and have both parties initial the correction. Never scribble over, erase, or tape over errors. When you’re unsure a correction will be accepted, applying for a duplicate title is safer than risking a rejected transfer after money has already changed hands.
Ink and Notarization
Use a black or blue ballpoint pen. Pencil, felt-tip markers, and unusual ink colors like red or green will get the title rejected. It sounds trivial until you’re the one applying for a duplicate because someone signed in pencil.
A number of states require the seller’s signature on the title to be notarized before the DMV will process the transfer. Arizona, Kentucky, Louisiana, Montana, Nebraska, Ohio, Oklahoma, and West Virginia are among those with some form of notarization requirement, though the specifics vary. Some require notarization only for the seller, others for both parties, and some only in certain situations like sales above a threshold price. Skipping notarization in a state that requires it means tracking down the other party to sign again in front of a notary.
Check your state’s motor vehicle agency website before you meet. If notarization is required, plan to sign at a notary’s office, a bank (most offer free notary service to account holders), or a shipping store that offers notary service. Some DMV offices keep a notary on-site.
After the Title Is Signed
Once the title is fully completed and signed, the seller should notify their state’s motor vehicle agency of the sale. This protects the seller from liability for anything that happens with the vehicle after the sale date, including parking tickets, toll violations, and accidents. The notification is usually a simple online form or a mailed notice.
The buyer takes the signed title to their local DMV to register the vehicle and apply for a new title in their name. Most states allow somewhere between 10 and 30 days from the purchase date to complete that step, and missing the window typically adds late fees on top of registration, sales tax, and the title transfer fee. Bring the signed title, a valid ID, proof of insurance, and the bill of sale if your state requires one. The DMV will issue a new title with the buyer’s name, which completes the transfer.