During a home inspection, your job as the buyer is to show up, follow the inspector through every accessible part of the house, ask questions as problems come up, run your own hands-on checks on the things an inspector moves past quickly, and leave with enough notes and photos to decide whether to ask for repairs, request a credit, or walk away before your contingency expires. Standing back and waiting for the written report is the single biggest mistake buyers make. The inspection window, usually 7 to 14 days from the day the seller accepts your offer, is the only time your contract gives you to catch problems while you still have leverage, so what you do during that window matters as much as what the inspector writes down.
Prepare Before You Arrive
Read the seller’s property disclosure statement first. It lists known defects, past repairs, and insurance claims, and the specific items it covers vary by state. Cross-reference it against any repair receipts the seller has provided so you can see whether past work was done by licensed professionals or completed informally. Mark the rooms and systems the disclosure mentions. Those are your focused watch-list for the walkthrough.
Bring a few inexpensive tools. A bright flashlight finds water stains in crawlspaces, attics, and behind appliances that overhead lighting hides. Your phone camera photographs serial numbers on the furnace, water heater, and air conditioner so you can check manufacture dates and warranty status later. A tape measure confirms room dimensions and whether furniture will fit. A notepad or checklist app keeps your observations straight while the inspector works.
Follow the Inspector Through Every Area
Walk the attic, basement, crawlspace, garage, and roof line with the inspector. Ask questions as issues come up. Watching the inspector test the furnace ignition or check the water heater’s pressure relief valve teaches you how the systems work, and you’ll need that knowledge as the owner.
Ask the inspector to point out the main shut-off valves for water and gas and the main breaker on the electrical panel. You need those locations for emergencies after closing. Ask what routine maintenance the home requires: gutter cleaning, HVAC filter changes, condensate drain lines. A good inspector treats the walkthrough as a teaching session, not just a defect hunt.
Take your own photos the whole time. Serial number plates on the furnace, air conditioner, and water heater let you verify the manufacture date against the disclosure and estimate remaining useful life. A photo of the electrical panel label helps an electrician assess capacity if you plan renovations. These records also become evidence if you negotiate repairs or credits later.
Run Your Own Hands-On Checks
The inspector concentrates on structural and mechanical systems. You should personally test the everyday functionality of the house, because small annoyances and early warning signs often get summarized away in a report.
Electrical and Plumbing
Flip every light switch and test every outlet. Open and close every faucet, then run several at once to check for pressure drops. Flush every toilet and watch how fast each drains. Slow drains in multiple fixtures can signal a main sewer line problem rather than a simple clog.
Windows and Doors
Open and close every window. Fogging between double-pane glass means a broken thermal seal, which requires replacing the glass unit. Windows that stick or won’t close can indicate foundation movement rather than a hardware issue, especially if several windows on the same wall are affected.
Floors and Cabinets
Walk slowly across floors near dishwashers, bathtubs, refrigerators, and toilets. Soft or spongy spots point to hidden water damage or subfloor rot. Open every cabinet door and drawer to check for smooth operation, water stains, or musty odors that suggest mold.
Foundation Cracks
Look at the foundation walls, basement floor, and exterior brick. Hairline cracks narrower than one-eighth of an inch that don’t grow over time are usually normal settlement. Cracks wider than one-eighth of an inch, horizontal cracks along foundation walls, diagonal cracks, or stair-step patterns in brick that wrap around a corner are more likely structural and warrant a follow-up evaluation by a structural engineer.
Exterior Grading
Check whether the soil around the foundation slopes away from the house. Soil sloping toward the home channels rainwater against the foundation and can cause basement flooding and long-term structural damage. While you’re outside, place an object in the garage door’s path during a closing cycle to confirm the auto-reverse sensors work.
Document every issue you find, even minor ones, with photos and notes. A detailed personal record strengthens your position when you request repairs or credits.
Know What the Inspection Will Not Cover
A standard inspection evaluates visible and accessible components of the home’s structure, mechanical systems, electrical wiring, plumbing, roofing, and exterior. The ASHI Standard of Practice explicitly states that inspections are “not technically exhaustive” and do not require identifying concealed conditions or latent defects.1American Society of Home Inspectors, Inc. Standard of Practice An inspector will not cut into walls, pull up flooring, or dig around the foundation.
Items commonly excluded from a standard inspection:
- Behind-wall conditions, including mold inside wall cavities, hidden plumbing leaks, or pest damage behind drywall
- Underground utilities, including sewer lateral lines, septic tanks, and buried fuel tanks
- Environmental hazards such as radon gas, asbestos, lead paint, and soil contamination
- Pest and termite damage, which typically requires a separate wood-destroying organism inspection
- Cost estimates; inspectors identify problems but are not required to estimate what repairs will cost
Knowing these gaps tells you which specialized tests to schedule inside the same contingency window.
Schedule Specialized Inspections Early
Several serious problems fall outside the standard scope. Depending on the home’s age, location, and construction, you may need one or more of these during your contingency period. Book them early, because results have to arrive before your deadline to negotiate or withdraw.
Radon
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that seeps through soil into homes, and it is the second leading cause of lung cancer. The EPA recommends installing a mitigation system if a home’s radon level reaches 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter) or higher, and recommends considering mitigation for levels between 2 and 4 pCi/L.2US EPA. What is EPA’s Action Level for Radon and What Does it Mean A professional 48-hour radon test generally costs between $150 and $700 depending on home size. If results come back above the action level, mitigation systems typically cost $800 to $1,500 to install, which is a reasonable item to negotiate as a seller credit.
Sewer Line Camera
A sewer scope sends a small camera through the underground pipe connecting the house to the municipal sewer main. It identifies cracks, tree root intrusion, pipe separation, and low spots (called bellies) that trap waste and cause backups. Homes built before the mid-1980s may have clay sewer pipes that are especially vulnerable to cracking and collapse. The scope generally costs a few hundred dollars, far less than a surprise sewer line replacement would cost after closing.
Lead-Based Paint
If the home was built before 1978, federal law requires the seller to disclose any known lead-based paint hazards and provide you with a minimum 10-day period to conduct a lead paint inspection before you are obligated under the purchase contract.3Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 42 U.S. Code 4852d – Disclosure of Information Concerning Lead Upon Transfer of Residential Property You may waive this right in writing, but doing so is risky if the home has original painted surfaces, especially if young children will live there.4eCFR. 24 CFR 35.90 – Opportunity to Conduct an Evaluation Remediation can be expensive, so testing before you commit protects both your family and your budget.
Other Add-Ons
Depending on the property, you may also want a termite or wood-destroying organism inspection, a mold assessment, a chimney inspection, or a well and septic test for rural properties.
Use the Age of Major Systems to Price the Risk
As the inspector names each major component, note how old it is and compare that against typical replacement timelines. Actual lifespan depends on climate, maintenance, and installation quality, but these ranges give you a working estimate:
- Asphalt shingle roof: 20 to 30 years, depending on shingle type (three-tab shingles trend toward the lower end, architectural shingles toward the higher end)
- Central air conditioner: 10 to 15 years
- Furnace: 15 to 20 years
- Tank water heater: 8 to 12 years
If a system is near the end of its expected life, ask the inspector about its current performance. A 17-year-old furnace that runs efficiently is a different situation from one showing signs of a cracked heat exchanger, which can cost $1,500 to $3,500 to replace. The answer tells you whether to raise it in negotiations.
Turn the Report Into a Negotiation
Once the written report arrives, you shift from observing to deciding. The inspection contingency in your purchase agreement sets the deadlines, and missing them can forfeit your right to request repairs or walk away. Contingency periods are negotiable but commonly run 7 to 14 days from the date the seller accepted your offer. During that window you can deliver a written request asking the seller to make repairs, provide a credit at closing, or reduce the purchase price. The request goes through your agent and becomes an amendment to the contract. If you fail to act before the deadline, many contracts treat the contingency as waived, meaning you accept the home’s condition as-is and lose your leverage to renegotiate or cancel without forfeiting your earnest money.
You generally have three options:
- Seller repairs. The seller fixes the issue before closing. This works best for clear-cut problems like a broken furnace or a roof leak where you can verify the completed work. The risk is that the seller may choose the cheapest contractor.
- Closing credit. The seller gives you a dollar amount at closing to cover the repair. You pick your own contractor and control the quality of work. Most lenders cap how much the seller can credit, so check with your loan officer before requesting a large amount.
- Price reduction. The purchase price drops to reflect the repair cost. This lowers your loan amount slightly but does not put cash in your hand at closing. It helps most if you are paying cash or plan to pay off the mortgage quickly.
For most buyers, a closing credit offers the greatest immediate benefit because it reduces the cash you need at the closing table and lets you hire your own repair professionals afterward.
Focus your requests on health and safety issues, structural defects, and major mechanical failures. Cosmetic concerns like scuffed floors, outdated paint, and minor drywall dings rarely justify a formal request and can weaken your credibility when negotiating larger items. Support every request with the relevant pages of the inspection report and, when possible, independent repair estimates. The seller then responds within a timeframe set by the contract, often a few days, by accepting, rejecting, or countering. If you cannot reach agreement and your contingency is still active, you can terminate the contract and receive a full refund of your earnest money.
Verify Repairs at the Final Walkthrough
The final walkthrough, typically one to two days before closing, is where you confirm that any agreed-upon repairs were actually completed. It is not a second inspection. It is a verification step.
- Bring a printed copy of the addendum listing every repair the seller agreed to make and check items off one by one.
- Ask for receipts, invoices, and warranty information from the contractors who did the work. Confirm the repairs were performed by licensed professionals when your agreement specified that.
- Test the repairs. If a faucet was replaced, run it. If plumbing was repaired, check for leaks. If drywall was patched, verify the patch is properly finished and did not damage surrounding surfaces.
- Look for new damage. Moving furniture out can reveal wall damage, scratches, or holes that were previously hidden. Confirm all fixtures, appliances, and items included in the sale are still present.
- Photograph and note any unfinished work, substandard repairs, or new damage, and share the documentation with your agent immediately.
If the walkthrough shows repairs are incomplete or poorly done, you have several options depending on your contract: delay closing until the work is finished, negotiate a last-minute credit, or in serious cases exercise any remaining contractual right to withdraw.
Don’t Waive the Contingency to Win the Bid
In competitive markets, some buyers waive the inspection contingency to make an offer more attractive. This is one of the riskiest moves a buyer can make. Without the contingency, you lose the contractual right to renegotiate or cancel based on the home’s condition. If you discover a failing sewer line, hidden mold, or structural damage after closing, you bear the full cost with limited recourse. Backing out after waiving typically also means forfeiting your earnest money.
If you feel pressured to waive, a less risky compromise is to shorten the inspection period instead of eliminating it. Even a five-day window gives you enough time to hire an inspector, catch deal-breaking defects, and protect your right to walk away.