The best time to get a home inspection depends on which decision it’s attached to: an inspection during a purchase contingency protects your deposit, one before listing protects you from a disclosure lawsuit, phased inspections during construction protect you from defects buried behind drywall, and a routine inspection every few years protects you from a surprise failure of an aging system. Knowing when to get a home inspection matters as much as getting one at all, because missing the window usually means losing the leverage or coverage the inspection was supposed to secure.
Right After Your Offer Is Accepted
For buyers, the window is set by your purchase contract. Offers typically include an inspection contingency giving you 7 to 10 days to hire an inspector, review the report, and decide whether to proceed. Miss that deadline and you generally forfeit the right to request repairs, ask for credits, or back out with your earnest money intact.
A standard residential inspection runs about $300 to $500, climbing above $700 for larger or older homes. That fee protects an earnest money deposit that usually sits between 1% and 5% of the purchase price. If the inspector finds a failing roof, outdated wiring, or foundation cracks, the contingency gives you a legal path to walk away with the deposit returned. Waive the contingency to strengthen your offer in a competitive market and you keep the option to inspect, but you lose that exit: major defects leave you either closing anyway or walking away and losing the deposit.
A standard inspection covers the structure, roof, plumbing, electrical, heating and cooling, insulation, and visible interior and exterior components, with a written report flagging anything that isn’t functioning properly, is significantly deficient, or is nearing the end of its useful life.1American Society of Home Inspectors, Inc. Standard of Practice Roughly 35 states license inspectors; the rest do not, so verify credentials yourself before hiring in an unlicensed state.
Once the report arrives, you can request repairs through an addendum, ask for a closing credit, negotiate a price reduction, or cancel the contract — whichever path you take has to happen inside the contingency window.
Add-On Inspections Worth Scheduling in the Same Window
A standard inspection has limits. Environmental hazards, pest damage, and buried pipes sit outside its scope, and the time to deal with them is while your contingency is still open.
Radon
Radon is a radioactive gas that enters homes through foundation cracks and is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. The EPA recommends mitigation at or above 4 pCi/L and suggests considering it between 2 and 4 pCi/L.2U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. What Is EPAs Action Level for Radon and What Does It Mean Testing costs about $125 to $275 bundled with a full inspection, or up to $400 as a standalone. Schedule it early in the contingency window because results take 48 hours or longer.
Lead-Based Paint
If the home was built before 1978, federal law requires the seller to disclose any known lead hazards and give you at least 10 days to conduct a lead inspection or risk assessment before you’re bound by the contract.3Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 42 U.S. Code 4852d – Disclosure of Information Concerning Lead Upon Transfer of Residential Property The seller doesn’t have to test or remediate; the 10-day window is your opportunity to test at your own expense. This matters most when young children will live in the home.
Wood-Destroying Organisms
A WDO or termite inspection costs $150 to $300 and looks for active infestations and damage from termites, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles, and fungal decay. VA and FHA loans require one in certain regions. Even where it isn’t required, undetected termite damage can run tens of thousands of dollars to repair.
Sewer Scope
A camera inspection of the line running from the house to the main sewer or septic system costs $100 to $300 and catches root intrusion, collapsed sections, and deteriorated clay or cast-iron pipe. Repairs for those problems typically land between $5,000 and $25,000 or more. Worth scheduling for homes older than 20 years or properties with large trees near the line.
If You’re Using an FHA or VA Loan
Government-backed loans add their own property checks on top of the standard appraisal. For VA loans, the appraiser verifies Minimum Property Requirements covering drainage, exposed wiring, roof integrity, and signs of wood-destroying insects. If the appraiser spots termite evidence, the appraisal is conditioned on a separate pest inspection, with any damage repaired before closing. Heating must maintain at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit in areas with plumbing, and defective paint on pre-1978 homes must be remediated.4U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs. VA Pamphlet VAP26-7 Chapter 12 – Minimum Property Requirement Overview FHA follows a similar framework of safety, security, and soundness, and any flagged deficiency has to be fixed before the loan closes.
Neither appraisal replaces a full inspection. The appraiser checks a narrow list of minimum conditions; the inspector gives you the detailed picture. Scheduling both inside your contingency window is the way to see everything.
Before You List Your Home for Sale
Sellers should schedule an inspection 30 to 60 days before the home goes on the market. A pre-listing inspection surfaces problems you might not know about and gives you time to repair them or adjust your asking price before offers come in.
The legal reason to do this is disclosure. Every state has some form of seller disclosure requirement, and failing to disclose a defect you knew about — or should have known about — can lead to a lawsuit after closing, with damages measured by repair cost, diminished value, or both. A pre-listing inspection documented upfront reduces that exposure and tends to shorten renegotiation at closing because both sides are working from the same information.
At Each Phase of New Construction
Building a new home means inspecting during construction, not just at the end. Once drywall goes up, the systems behind it are hidden. Three phases matter.
Foundation. After the forms and reinforcing steel are set but before concrete is poured. The inspector verifies footing depth, underground plumbing placement, and soil drainage. Once the concrete cures, these components are permanently buried.
Framing and rough-in. After framing, wiring, plumbing, and HVAC ductwork are installed but before insulation and drywall. This is the only point at which framing connections, wire routing, and plumbing joints are visible.
Final walkthrough. Just before the local building department issues the certificate of occupancy. The inspector confirms finishes, fixtures, appliances, grading, and drainage match the approved plans and applicable code, and documents any punch-list items for the builder.
These are separate from municipal inspections, which verify code compliance at each stage but are usually brief. An independent inspector works for you and goes deeper than minimum code.
Before Each Builder Warranty Window Closes
New homes typically carry a tiered warranty: one year on workmanship and materials, two years on mechanical systems (plumbing, electrical, heating, and cooling), and ten years on major structural defects. Terms vary by builder and provider, so read your documents for exact deadlines.
The one-year workmanship warranty is the most important deadline because it covers the widest range of issues: drywall cracks from settling, minor leaks, flooring gaps, door and window adjustments, and other problems that surface after the first full cycle of seasons. Schedule an inspection in month 11 so you have time to document defects and file claims before the window closes. After one year, the builder is generally not obligated to address workmanship problems.
Submit the report to the warranty department as soon as you get it. Leaving only a few weeks of buffer gives the builder time to walk the house or dispute items. For the two-year systems warranty, repeat the process around month 22 or 23, focused on heating, cooling, plumbing, and electrical performance. The ten-year structural warranty covers rare but catastrophic failures; an inspection around year nine can catch early signs of foundation movement or framing distortion.
Every Few Years as an Owner
Once warranties expire, a professional inspection every three to five years helps you stay ahead of expensive failures. Major systems have predictable lifespans: a roof lasts 20 to 30 years, a water heater 10 to 15 years, and an HVAC system 15 to 20 years. A periodic inspection tracks aging components and flags the ones approaching the end of their service life before they fail.
Insurance is another trigger. Some insurers require a four-point inspection — covering the roof, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC — before issuing or renewing a policy on homes typically 20 to 30 years old or more. If your insurer asks for one, completing it promptly avoids a coverage gap.
After a Major Weather Event
Following a storm, flood, or other disaster, schedule an inspection as soon as it’s safe to access the property. The report documents damage with photographs and descriptions that adjusters rely on to process claims. Prior periodic inspections also serve as a baseline showing the home’s pre-event condition.
If You Have a Septic System
The EPA recommends inspecting a septic system every one to three years and pumping the tank every three to five years.5U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Frequent Questions on Septic Systems Systems with pumps, filters, or aerobic treatment units may need inspection every six months to one year. During a routine inspection, the technician measures solids in the tank to decide whether pumping is due. Neglect can lead to failure, which is a health hazard and an expensive repair; full replacement runs $15,000 to $30,000 or more. Many states also require a septic inspection before a home with a septic system can be sold.