When selling a car, the seller signs on the back of the title in the box labeled “Transferor,” “Seller,” or “Assigned by,” and the buyer signs directly below in the box labeled “Transferee,” “Purchaser,” or “Assigned to.” Knowing where to sign a car title when selling matters because a signature in the wrong box, a skipped field, or a correction made with white-out can void the title and force you to apply for a duplicate before the sale can go through. The exact layout varies by state, but the signing areas and the federal rules around them are the same everywhere.
Fill In These Fields Before Anyone Signs
Flip the title to the back and look at the assignment section before you pick up a pen. A few fields have to be completed first.
Federal law requires the seller to record the vehicle’s current odometer reading at the time of transfer. The reading goes in a designated odometer disclosure section, usually sitting right alongside the signature lines, and the regulation requires the seller’s printed name and signature confirming the mileage is accurate to the best of their knowledge.1eCFR. 49 CFR Part 580 – Odometer Disclosure Requirements Falsifying that reading is a federal offense carrying civil penalties up to $10,000 per vehicle and, for willful violations, up to three years in prison.2Office of the Law Revision Counsel. 49 USC 32709 – Penalties and Enforcement
Older and heavier vehicles are exempt from the mileage disclosure. In 2026, that includes any vehicle from model year 2010 or earlier, any vehicle with a gross weight rating over 16,000 pounds, and non-self-propelled vehicles like trailers.3eCFR. 49 CFR 580.17 – Exemptions If your vehicle qualifies, the odometer line may be marked “exempt” instead of needing a mileage figure.
Write the sale price in the designated field. The buyer’s state will use it to calculate sales tax at registration. Enter the date of sale too, since that is the moment the seller’s responsibility for the car ends.
Use blue or black ink. Pencil, erasures, and white-out can void a title in many states. If you make a mistake, don’t try to fix it; apply for a duplicate title. Duplicate fees generally run from around $5 to $75 depending on the state.
Where the Seller Signs
On the back of the title, find the section labeled “Transferor,” “Seller,” or “Assigned by.” That is where the seller completes their portion. You will usually see fields for printed name, signature, address, and date. Print your legal name exactly as it appears on the front of the title. No nicknames, no abbreviations. If your name has changed since the title was issued, update it at your state’s motor vehicle agency before the sale.
Watch out for the lienholder release section. It often sits on the same side of the title as the seller line, and sellers sometimes sign there by mistake. When that happens, the buyer’s registration office will reject the title as defective. Read the section labels before writing anything.
Where the Buyer Signs
Directly below or next to the seller section, look for fields labeled “Transferee,” “Purchaser,” or “Assigned to.” The buyer prints their full legal name here, matching the name on the government ID they will show at the registration counter, and signs. If more than one person is buying the vehicle, each buyer prints and signs in this section.
Keep signatures inside the lines. Some states scan title documents, and ink outside the fields can cause the paperwork to be kicked back. The buyer’s signature confirms acceptance of the vehicle and acknowledges the odometer reading and sale price the seller wrote in.
Two Owners on the Title: “And” Versus “Or”
When two people are listed as owners on the front of the title, the little word between their names decides who has to sign the back.
- If the names are joined by “and,” both owners must sign the seller section. Neither person can transfer the vehicle alone.
- If the names are joined by “or,” either owner can sign and complete the transfer independently.
The same choice shapes the buyer’s side. If two people are buying the car together, decide before filling in the transferee fields whether to list the names with “and” or “or,” because that choice controls how much flexibility each person has to sell or transfer the car later.
When the Signature Has to Be Notarized
Roughly a dozen states require the seller’s signature on the title to be notarized for the transfer to be valid. A smaller number require the buyer’s signature to be notarized too. If your state has that requirement, do not sign the title before you reach the notary. A pre-signed document can be rejected as invalid.
The notary will check each signer’s photo ID, watch you sign, and apply a seal or stamp. Fees for this kind of service are usually modest, generally $5 to $25 per signature. Even where notarization isn’t required, some buyers and sellers choose it as added fraud protection.
Signing With a Power of Attorney
If the vehicle owner can’t be at the signing because of illness, military deployment, or other circumstances, most states let an agent sign on the owner’s behalf using a power of attorney. The agent generally needs a state-specific POA form that identifies the vehicle by VIN, grants authority to sign title documents, and carries the owner’s notarized signature.
On the title itself, the agent typically signs the owner’s name followed by the agent’s own name and a notation such as “attorney-in-fact” or “POA.” Some states bar the same person from acting as both buyer and seller in a single transaction. Confirm the exact form and format with your state’s motor vehicle agency.
If There’s a Lien or the Title Is Lost
You generally can’t hand a buyer a clean title while a lienholder is still listed on it. The usual path is to pay off the loan, then get a lien release from the lender. The lender will either sign the lienholder release section on the existing title, issue a separate release letter, or file an electronic release with the state. The timeline runs from days to several weeks depending on the lender and state, so tell a private buyer about the lien upfront and coordinate payoff and handover together.
You also can’t complete the sale without the title in hand. If the original is lost, stolen, or too damaged to use, apply for a duplicate through your state’s motor vehicle agency before signing anything. Expect to submit an application, show photo ID, and pay a fee that generally falls between a few dollars and about $75. Some states issue the duplicate the same day; others mail it over several weeks. If a lienholder was listed on the lost title, a lien release letter may be needed before the duplicate can be issued.
After the Signatures: Handover and Filing
Once the title is fully signed, and notarized if your state requires it, the seller gives the original to the buyer. The buyer will need it to register the vehicle and pay any sales tax. Many states also recommend or require a separate bill of sale listing both parties, the year, make, model, and VIN, the sale date, and the price. Both sides should keep a copy.
In many states the seller is also expected to file a notice of transfer, release of liability, or notice of sale with the motor vehicle agency. That filing formally separates you from the vehicle in state records so you don’t receive parking tickets, toll violations, or accident notices for a car you no longer own. Several states offer this through an online portal.
Finally, in most states the license plates belong to the seller, not the car. Pull your plates before the buyer drives off. Depending on the state, you may be able to transfer them to another vehicle you own or you may need to turn them back in. Leaving your plates on a sold car can create real liability if the new owner is in a traffic incident before re-registering.